People are always passionate about bath design. So to design your bathroom, if you want to move the toilet it is possible just requires the experts such as a bathroom design professional or experienced plumber.
While your bathroom remodels, handling the bathroom’s original footprint is important to controlling cost, and keeping on schedule. Occasionally a bath remodel means a variation in the layout. Bathroom layout or moving the toilet is sometimes needed too.
However, moving the toilet can be completed with actual plumbing work and an excellent job of peripheral tasks like opening up a floor or ceiling, drain flange and rerouting pipes, and replacing the toilet and other fixtures.
It is a job for a professional plumber, but a few skilled DIYers can effectively do the work.
How You Move A Toilet
A toilet moving means not moving the main fixture, placing a toilet is an easy task that requires less than an hour.
It involves moving the water supply plumbing and drainage to the new location. If all of the plumbing is in the proper place, placing the toilet is a comparatively very simple activity.
Move The Toilet Drain
The down-floor toilet drainage pipes are particularly broad in diameter (generally 3 inches) and hard to route through flooring cowries.
Another action running beneath floors beyond complicated matters: electrical cables, water supply pipes, recessed lights, insulation, cross-bracing for the cowries and more.
Toilet drainage pipes are also gravity-fed, which means they drop at a vertical ratio of ¼ inch for each horizontal foot.
Whereas normally this can be maintained, it can keep down the distance of a new toilet location, as the toilet requires staying close enough to the main drain or venting stack to make up the necessary slope.
You can try to assess your new toilet location reason for the new drain can work in the spaces between cowries and endeavour to prevent notching out cowries to operate the pipes.
The Toilet Water Supply Moving
The other action of the project is not so difficult: continuing a water supply line to your toilet. After each flush to fill the toilet tank needs a proper supply of pure or freshwater.
Due to the pipes are smaller where they can be routed very easily through the cowries or inside the wall system.
Plastic PEX pipes (bendable) make this task easier for complete-it-yourself while in comparison to the earlier classic process of operating copper pipes and sweat-soldering the joints.
Regarding This Programme
The program referred here does not move the house’s original vent or drain process, since this formation is shared by another drain pipe for another fixture.
In our illustration, the toilet is transferred 5 feet where most of the bathrooms are 5 feet wide so the all drainage line standing drop of 11/4 inches. The water supply line and drainage line perform in the spaces between collateral cowries.
Usually, the still toilet drain and waste vent stack are made from plastic pipe (ABS) that is so common. And, if the waste vent stack is made from other material like PVC plastic or cast iron this may change slightly how to join the new toilet drain to the stack.
- 6-feet of the 3-inch drain pipe, ABS or PVC
- Toilet closet flange
- Push-fit or compression ring PEX fittings
- Half-inch PEX pipe, eight feet
- 3-inch diameter ABS or PVC pipe (from 5 to7 feet)
- 3-inch diameter long sweep with a 90-degree bend, ABS or PVC
- 3 inch 90-degree bends, ABS or PVC
- 3-inch wyes drain fitting, ABS or PVC
- ABS glue
Tools or equipment:
- Flathead screwdriver
- Putty knife
- Pry bar
- Reciprocating saw
- Circular saw
- Cordless drill
Hint: Relying on where you want to move your toilet, the accurate drain fittings required may vary. Be ready using extra ABS or PVC fittings as needed to route the toilet drain to the waste vent stack.
However, it is troublesome which flow into the waste-vent stack conduct the continual bends given by sweeps and wyes fittings, avoid the sharp elbows which interfere with easy drain flow.
1. Take Aside Your Toilet
At first, take aside the toilet from its present location. If your toilet is to be re-employed place it diligently to get around chipping or breaking the porcelain. Differently, displace your toilet in a promise-bound manner.
Then, stress a rag into the drainpipe to eliminate losing tools as well as to interrupt sewer gases from appearing in the home.
2. Attain Access
Toilet drainage lines run through the flooring system which can efficiently be accessed from above or below.
If it is a loose-lay floating system floor, you may desire to alleviate it and mowing enough sub-floor by the circular sow to enter the place underneath. Particularly this is helpful if it requires to be totally replaced.
Set the circular saw blade to a depth around 1/8 inch extensive than the solidity of the subfloor. It decreases damage to the cowries that can be used kind of nailing surfaces to replace the subfloor.
Possibly, if the room under is available and open and clutter is not the motive, you can wish to destroy the drywall ceiling for entrance to the toilet pipes above.
3. Take Aside the Toilet Flange
Using a screwdriver, from the floor just unscrew the toilet flange, and then alleviate it from the drain pipe.
If your toilet flange is diluents-glued in the proper place, you will necessary to cut it away by a reciprocating saw.
4. Need to Cut Your Toilet Dend
Cutaway the used toilet bends using the reciprocating sow as close as obvious to the waste vent stack. Then, your new toilet drain will separate into the divided bend.
5. Fix The New Drain Location
The recent toilet drain must have at all 15 inches of space from the middle of the drain to the entire sidewalls, involving the bathtub and shower.
This allows adequate space to assure that the placed toilet will ascertain the walls and such obstacles.
6. Conduct The New Drain
Run the new drain pipe mainly its length from the new toilet location to the specific waste vent stack.
At your waste vent stack, place a new wyes fitting where you divided the old drain and use a long sweep 90-degree bend to straight the drainpipe to your recent toilet location.
Assemble the toilet pipes together with the compatible fittings glued along with the right solvent glue. Notice the drain line slopes to the down with a pitch of at all ¼ inch each horizontal foot on the part of a stack.
7. Set The Drain Stub-out
Be equal with (glue) a 90-degree toilet bend onto your last of the recent drain pipe, after the tome fixes a 6-inch pipe into the high-placing socket, spreading up through the floor.
8. Operate Tour Water Supply Line
Now, run your old water supply line by a single operation of PEX pipe through the cowries.
There is a different method to join new PEX tubing to still copper pipes, and the simplest way is with push-fit union fittings. At your recent toilet location, work out the PEX water supply line using a fixture shutoff valve expounded through the wall.
In that place, the pipe up rises through the wall, by a copper stub-out elbow together a flange which nails to a stud. The PEX tubing connects to one part of the elbow and the fixture shut-off valve to another.
9. Match The Toilet Flange
In this stage, replace the complete flooring and the subfloor. Detach the drainpipe flush together with the level of the complete floor by a reciprocating saw.
Place the toilet closet flange on the summit of the flooring using solvent glue and screw the flange down to the subfloor.
10. Place The Toilet
Place the toilet on the peak of the toilet closet flange. Attach the water supply at the same time turn it on. Then, check the toilet.
A bathroom remodels activity is one of the most all the go programmes for homeowners to take on.
If you are expecting your bathroom remodel which includes moving a toilet, our above considerations are most effective for everyone.